Are Influencers and Instagram Changing The Definition of Luxury?
For as long as I can remember, luxury fashion has always been synonymous with exclusivity, timeless craftsmanship and premium pricing.
Yet, in this digital age of social media, much has changed, and the lines between ‘behind the gate’ and accessibility have begun to blur. What was once deemed a status symbol reserved for a select few is now being perceived in a way which raises questions about the authenticity of value and definition of luxury fashion.
From $50 scandals escaping the doors of Dior, to influencer culture and mass-market knock-offs, luxury fashion is facing a new era. In this blog, we’ll take a look at how social media has changed what it means to own a piece of luxury, how race and social class play their part, and whether it’s contributing to the devaluation of an industry built on prestige.
When Luxury Isn’t What It Seems
Not too far from around this time last year, a scandal rocked the luxury fashion world when it was reported that certain handbags were being produced at a fraction of their retail price.
Despite a Dior bag costing as little as $53 to make, they were being sold for over $2000!
While it’s completely normal for a brand to incur markup fees, including labour, advertising, heritage, etc. Such a discrepancy in costs in an era of transparency raised serious concerns about the authenticity and integrity of the industry. The scandal sparked discussions about whether brands are truly offering something valuable or simply capitalising on a culture of luxury marketing.
Influence: The Normalisation of Luxury
The rise of influencers has also had an undeniable impact on how luxury fashion is perceived. You don’t have to go too far through your explore page before you scroll across a twenty-something-year-old talking us through her newest purchase of a Hermes Birkin bag - the hallmark of wealth and status.
While the Birkin itself has done well at remaining a symbol of exclusivity, the influx of influencers posting their valued pieces has almost made them feel inescapable.
I remember when I first saw that giveaway Molly-Mae did, you know the one, it sent thousands of girls into a frenzy. But what I was startled by was how many pieces of Louis Vuitton were included in the giveaway.
In an attempt to create buzz, fashion houses have increasingly been collaborating with influencers and creators, all in the name of engagement.
These strategies are powerful moves for getting more eyes on your brand, if you’re Bershka, but for an old luxury fashion house such as Louis Vuitton with centuries of history behind its name, these strategies flood the market and weaken their once unquestionable values of exclusivity.
So, where does this leave the true luxury shopper, the person who has spent years saving and working hard to afford these highly desired pieces?
How does their desirability translate to the luxury shopper now, and are we watching luxury fashion become another part of the Instagram game of trading likes for follows?
Why Luxury Fashion Was Never Truly for Everyone
We’d be naïve to believe that luxury fashion was simply about the price tag. Historically, luxury has been shaped by the dynamics of both race and social class, and since social media and the influencer culture have increased access to these sought-after items, I must explore the question of:
Does this shift reflect the industry’s inherent issues with racism and classism?
Racism in Luxury
For decades, luxury fashion was mostly inaccessible to people of colour, not just because of the high prices but due to systemic racism in the industry.
Black and brown models were often excluded from major advertising campaigns, and luxury fashion houses weren’t eager to cater to diverse demographics. Even today, we still hear the stories referencing the industry’s struggle to move forward in equality and representation.
In 2018, Anok Yai became the first model to open a runway show for Prada since Naomi Campbell, who wasn’t only the first black model to open for Prada in 1997 but the first black model to walk for the Italian fashion house at all.
1997!
Imagine that, between the brand’s inception in 1913 to 1997, no black models were featured on the catwalk for Prada.
The idea of luxury itself was often defined by a Eurocentric standard, where white, wealthy, and often slim individuals were the primary consumers.
Only recently have brands begun to diversify their advertisements and create more inclusive campaigns, though the path to true inclusivity has been slow.
Classism’s Role in Defining 'Exclusivity'
The idea of exclusivity was often based not just on wealth and race, but also on social class.
If you weren’t part of the old-money elite or the established social circles, access to luxury fashion was simply not an option.
Your only way in was through East Street market to decide whether the knock-offs were passable or not. Either that or Burberry’s tartan print which became the somewhat clan colours for the East End ‘chavs’. Some being friends of mine lol!
However, this reinforced the division in societal class divides, where only a certain set of people could wear the “right” labels and other symbols of wealth. Social media’s equalising of luxury, though arguably good in some aspects, exposed how classist the luxury fashion industry has always been.
Now that the masses have access to the gated world of high-end fashion, we see the unintended consequences of years of exclusionary practices.
The relationship between race, class, and luxury fashion is deeply intertwined with social and cultural history. As we continue to witness the change in definition of what it means to own a piece of exclusivity, the role of social media, and the evolving attitudes toward luxury, it’s important to recognise that this shift may not only be about accessibility but about challenging the old, racist, and classist norms that the industry was built upon.
While some of the uppity and ultra wealthy may mourn the loss of luxury’s inaccessibility, I believe this is a necessary evolution, one that brings greater representation and inclusivity to an industry that, for too long, and ironically was so far behind.
What Does This All Mean for the Future of Luxury Fashion?
It is clear that social media has made luxury fashion more accessible than ever.
And we now live in a world where the bridge between aspirational and attainable only requires a few short footsteps.
On one hand, luxury fashion brands are expanding their reach and staying relevant in a fast-paced, ever-changing digital world. On the other hand, the relentless drive for social media engagement and the saturation of high-end items in influencer culture may be eroding the very essence of what it means to be "luxury."
Let me know what you think in the comments. Does luxury have the same meaning it did 15 years ago, or has he definition changed?
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